Leather Thicknesses...... Where to start??
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So your looking to start a new project. Whether it be a Wallet, Belt or Watch Strap, choosing the right leather thickness is one of the most important decisions in any leatherworking project. Too thin, and your piece may stretch or wear out prematurely. Too thick, and it can be difficult to stitch, fold, or shape. I struggled with this when I first started out, ruining projects because I chose the wrong thicknesses of leather. Understanding leather thickness—and how it affects strength, flexibility, and appearance—will help you get top tier professional results every time.
This blog will hopefully break down common leather thicknesses into easy to understand bands and explain which projects they’re best suited for.
Understanding Leather Thickness
Leather thickness is typically measured in ounces (oz) or millimeters (mm).
1 oz ≈ 0.4 mm
Leather usually ranges from 1 oz (0.4 mm) to 16 oz (6.4 mm)
Higher ounce leather is thicker, stiffer, and more durable. Lower ounce leather is thinner, softer, and more flexible.
Thin Leather (1–3 oz / 0.4–1.2 mm)
Best used for these projects:
i) Wallet interiors
ii) Lining leather
iii) Watch straps
iv) Book covers
v) Lightweight pouches
vi) Garment leather
Why use this thickness?
Thin leather is easy to fold, stitch, and layer without creating bulk. It’s ideal for projects that need flexibility or multiple layers glued together.
Things to Consider:
On its own, thin leather lacks structure and durability. It’s often backed with thicker leather or reinforcement.
Medium-Light Leather (3–5 oz / 1.2–2.0 mm)
Best used for these projects:
i) Wallet exteriors
ii) Card holders
iii) Small bags and clutches
iv) Notebook covers
v) Soft belts
vi) Camera straps
Why use this thickness?
This range offers a great balance between strength and flexibility. It’s thick enough to hold its shape but thin enough for hand stitching and folding.
Things to Consider:
For stress points (like belt holes or strap ends), you may want reinforcement or double layers.
Medium Leather (5–7 oz / 2.0–2.8 mm)
Best used for these projects:
i) Belts
ii) Tote bags
iii) Tool rolls
iv) Knife slips
v) Structured handbags
vi) Sandals
Why use this thickness?
This is one of the most versatile thickness ranges. It’s strong, durable, and still workable with hand tools.
Things to Consider:
Edges may need beveling and burnishing to reduce bulk, especially where folds are required.
Medium-Heavy Leather (7–9 oz / 2.8–3.6 mm)
Best used for these projects:
i) Heavy-duty belts
ii) Sheaths
iii) Satchels
iv) Backpack panels
v) Work aprons
Why use this thickness?
Thicker leather provides excellent durability and structure. It’s perfect for items that must withstand weight, friction, or repeated use.
Things to Consider:
Stitching becomes more difficult at this thickness. Pre-punching holes and using stronger needles and thread is essential.
Heavy Leather (9–12 oz / 3.6–4.8 mm)
Best used for these projects:
i) Holsters
ii) Armor and cosplay pieces
iii) Saddlery components
iv) Heavy straps
v) Protective gear
Why use this thickness?
This leather is extremely strong and rigid, offering maximum protection and longevity.
Things to Consider:
It requires heavy-duty tools, strong stitching techniques, and often wet-forming to shape properly.
Extra-Heavy Leather (12–16 oz / 4.8–6.4 mm)
Best used for these projects:
i) Saddle skirts
ii) Soles (when stacked or compressed)
iii) Industrial leatherwork
iv) Historical armor
Why use this thickness?
This thickness is built for extreme strength and structure.
Things to Consider:
Not beginner-friendly. Cutting, shaping, and stitching require specialized tools and experience.
Quick Reference Table
| Project Type | Recommended Thickness |
|---|---|
| Wallet interiors | 1–2 oz (0.4–0.8 mm) |
| Wallet exteriors | 3–4 oz (1.2–1.6 mm) |
| Belts | 7–9 oz (2.8–3.6 mm) |
| Bags & totes | 4–7 oz (1.6–2.8 mm) |
| Sheaths & holsters | 8–10 oz (3.2–4.0 mm) |
| Watch straps | 2–4 oz (0.8–1.6 mm) |
| Armor & heavy gear | 10–16 oz (4.0–6.4 mm) |
Final Thoughts
Really, there’s no single “right” leather thickness—only the right thickness for your project. With experience and a few failed projects, you'll learn best use of thicknesses for what suits you. However, When in doubt, think about structure, flexibility, and stress points. Many professional leatherworkers combine multiple thicknesses in one item to achieve the perfect balance of form and function. Considering these elements when designing your projects, you'll really make the best of every element.